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Which oil is best?
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The El Camino Kid
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Which oil is best? Reply with quote

Everyone has different stories of how one oil gummed up the motor and this works better so what do ya'll think is the best oil personally?
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theresthatguy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good luck with valvoline, but I am starting to switch towards Castrol. Royal Purple is probably THE best though.
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S.V.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a good quality oil like Mobil 1 and change it regularly. Oils don`t gum up engines if they are changed at regular intervals. 3K miles is best although some manufacturers recommend longer intervals. My philosophy is "oils are cheap, engines aren't"!
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theelcaminofactory
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Royal Purple in anything I value...Crapoila in anything else.
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dougs85
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

theelcaminofactory wrote:
Royal Purple in anything I value...Crapoila or Valvoline in anything else.


Someone clue me in on Royal Purple oil. Of the so called oil tests I have read Royal Purple was not the highest in any category. And the prices I have seen is very high. Who makes it? Is is it imported?

Edit. Googled Royal Purple oil and answered most of my own questions.

Doug
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Royal is more of a race standard oil designed for it i mean. Mobil 1 in my opinion is the best .Ihave run it in every thing i own and never had a problem.I had a nova that i drove when i was in school probally put close to 100,000 on it when the head gasket blew at about 60,000 i took the motor down expectin to have to rebuild but it still had hone marks in the cylinders. I just put it back together and guy i sold it to is still driving it. I wouldn't even guess how many miles it has on it now that was 10 years ago.
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trevordbs78
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only auto parts store on island is napa. So i use the napa extended life. (high miles) i have always used the high miles oil.

i live in MA now, so i use 10-30 winter and 10-40 summer. Used to run just 10-40 all year back in lovely san diego, ca. I change my oil roughly every three to 4 months. Once a year i buy 10-50 and run it for a month and then go back to 10-40 or 10-30. Running the thicker oil for a month or so seems to get a lot of gunk out, so i've done it for about 4 years now.

Im sure no one here goes from standard to synthetic than to standard again. But just incase you didn't know, don't/ :P

Let's just say " someone i know that makes more money than me " has an early 90's jeep, has used standard oil forever. The jeep runs like crap-ola, hardcore. he's got that idle on that carb so high i think its going to explode. anyway. He put marine grade oil(for a diesel engne) in it, and if you know anything about marine grade oil, you'll know it can carry lots of detergants. Lets just say, after 3 days it won't stop leaking oil from ever part there is a gasket. :P people make mistakes, but thats a big one. :D
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valvoline, loved it in the elky, used nothing but 10w30 all year on the new engine never had any problems with the oil.

-Anduh
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something we need to be aware of is that the latest EPA specs for oil have forced the manufacturers to reduce the zinc content of todays motor oils. Not a problem for new engines with roller lifters and such, but a bad thing for engines with flat tappet cams, especially performance cams.

You can get around this problem by adding an additive which increase "ZDDP" levels to your favorite oil. GM's "EOS" additive is one that can help. I've heard there are a few other products available as well. I've also found that Penzoil racing oil and Brad Penn break in oil have enough formulated in to be ok.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Zinc_Motor_Oils.aspx

http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/GTPerformanceRacing.PDF

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=26
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:03 am    Post subject: zinc Reply with quote

The oil I ordered got here, have not changed it yet. This product has a good level of zinc protection.

here is a link to their site, it has a dealer locator. I got lucky, one just a few doors down from the office I work for. They are a Applied store, formerly called Dixie Bearing. May be one near you.
http://www.lubriplate.com/products/auto-and-marine/super-gpo-heavy-duty-motor-oils.html
test data; zinc=1326ppm, phos=1176ppm, ca=2322ppm,
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

all the time i run with 20W50 from "76" or Valvoline, only mineral, no syntetic splash.
do you like syntetic beer ? Cool
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elcamino74guy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Mobil 1 in my 74. I use conventional during break in on new engines though to let rings seat and such. I know that's mainly for older engines which have a lot more engineered slop in them than new engines though. New cars I go with what the manual says.

On my 08 Mustang GT I did a 500 mile break-in change and used castrol 5W20 blend which other than Ford's oil is recommended type and viscosity.

I keep a bottle of 5W20 Royal Purple in my road kit in the trunk as a backup.

Hard to believe there isn't some kind of TSB out there that mentions using an additive because of the Zinc problem. THe mobil 1 response didn't really answer the question.

I just don't see why automakers would sit idly by when something could potentially cost them hundreds of millions in warranty claims.

Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ole Pop has been around a while, and have used probably most the major brands. I had excellant service from the old Quaker State red top High detergent) oil, and all the major brands--Valvoline, Havoline etc. Why pay more for Royal Purple? Changing oil at three thousand miles is wasting money. I use Mobil One in two of my vehicles because that is what was used in them before I got them. I prefer to stay with the same oil that was previously used, instead of swapping to an petroleum oil.
THE MAIN THING IS TO CHANGE YOUR OIL AT FREQUENT INTERVALS, WITH A NEW FILTER. CHANGE THE AIR FILTER AT THE RECOMMENDED INTERVALS. IF YOU USE A FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER, USE IT JUST BEFORE YOUR OIL CHANGE. LAST BUT NOT LEAST, DO NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE HOT.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:40 pm    Post subject: oil Reply with quote

Point taken, Pops. However if the oil does not change, the method need not change. Problem being, the oil has changed. It is not what it used to be. If you do not have a modern engine with a roller cam etc..., the same oil that you have always bought and the same changing regiment is just not enough anymore.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I just don't see why automakers would sit idly by when something could potentially cost them hundreds of millions in warranty claims.


GM knew about this problem ages ago... they changed over to roller cams in 1987. Ford was using roller cams years before that.

Before that, even when oil was still SF rated, GM forgot to heat treat their cams, and lobes were being wiped right off the dealer's lot. Nobody noticed because the engines were dogs from the dark days of the CAFE era.

EOS is no longer avaible at GM dealers. I believe Delco dealers can still get it, but not sure. The ZDDP content reduction with the new SM/SL oil is only ~30% less than SF rated oil.

I've also heard from people that are using regular oil with no cam issues. It is most critical during breakin, when an oil with high ZDDP is required. Apparently it's hit or miss whether you'll wear a cam after its broken in. I run a diesel 15w40 in the summer, but change to a plain 10w30 for winter. I did try the EOS in the past, but wondered if it actually mixed with the oil (it sank to the bottom of the new oil). Right now I'm running plain 10w30, will have to see if the cam suffers.

-Michael
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