350 rebuild

year · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:38 am Post subject: 350 rebuild

Here is my situation. Currently I have a mid 80's sbc which I know very little about. I have roughly 1,000 dollars to spend on parts, plus I already have a 600 cfm holley and an edelbrock rpm intake. A new distributor or a rebuild kit for it will be necessary. I would like some interesting ideas on how to do the rebuild. I'm not really looking for the common 350 rebuild or 383 stroker, maybe something that can really rev high... Pretty much what I can afford, and something that should last a couple summers.

old_coot · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:27 pm Post subject:

If you don't do it right, and rev it really high it won't last an hour---you might be better served going the budget 383 route and keeping the revs down----you can make speed two ways one is with torque and the other is by high rpms---torque is cheaper---even a budget 383 can rev to 5000+ if its balanced and thats plenty for anything on the street.but for a thousands buck its going to be hard to do much more than a rering and bearings and do it right---that means having everthing checked to be sure its in good usable shape, I wish you luck, I understand working on a budget...........Dan
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year · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:47 pm Post subject:

I understand that my budget isn't set for a high rpm small block, so if i was going to go for torque (in a heavy 6 Cool

a 383 with a cast crank would probably work. I am still up for some unique maybe proven combo that will help my meager budget make some power.

elcamino74guy · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:00 pm Post subject:

If you're not planning on making passes down the 1320 every weekend and a grand is your budget I'd concentrate on intake, heads, and exhaust. If your stock bottom end is in good shape then you'll see the best bang for the buck and it'll last forever so long as you stay away from the 5500RPM mark.

Race any motor, even a 6 figure motor, and it's going to have a short life no matter what it's got in it. Race teams treat engines like brake pads, they expect them to wear out and need replacement regularly.

Just having fun around town won't hurt a good stock bottom end with some better flowing top-end parts. Either have some flow work done on your stock heads or get a set of better flowing heads. Match that to a cam with a little more overlap to allow better breathing and a decent set of headers to put the cherry on top.

That should all be do-able on a grand budget.

Note, that assumes the rest of the drivetrain doesn't need attention.

Happy

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year · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:45 pm Post subject:

I would like to make it out to the track, but mostly I want to drive on the street. For exhaust I did not mention it but I have generic long tube headers, and two 2.5 inch pipes going to flowmaster 40 series mufflers with turndowns. I agree that not messing with the bottom end would open more money up for heads and cam, but for the most part the car has been sitting for 20 years so I plan on instpecting it regardless. Also will I see any advantages between dome or flat top pistons? Straight or angle plug?

Steve81OR · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:47 am Post subject:

year · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:13 am Post subject:

thanks for the link, nice page. Hows your engine holding up? That looked like a straight foreward rebuild that I could handle. And you did that for about 1000 dollars minus the heads? Of course I still have to take the heads off to see whats going on there, this weekend.
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front willwood big brake kit
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Flowmaster 40 series
rear tire melting option

Steve81OR · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:27 am Post subject:

year · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:38 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the tip about the Summit website. $4,000 is over my budget unfortunatly, as were mos tof the kits from summit. Northern auto parts had a 383 kit for $639 that looks like an excellent banf for the buck. I should be able to work out a deal to get all the machining done at little or no cost, and still stay within my budget. (I wish i didn't have a budget Smile

).
Also I had asked around about vortec heads, and I recieved some skepisism about the number of intake bolts they have. I guess with less bolts they are more prone to leaking, which is not something i'd want to risk after putting all the time and effort into it. Maybe someone has had experiance with that sort of thing, although i'm not sure its a common problem on a primarley street car.
thanks for your replies in advance.
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front willwood big brake kit
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Flowmaster 40 series
rear tire melting option

toms84ss · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:53 am Post subject:

I've run a couple different sets of Vortec heads with two different intake manifolds. I have had no problems with any leaks. I wouldn't be afraid to use them on anything.

year · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 2:01 pm Post subject:

thats good to hear. are the intakes specific to the vortec heads, or should my old manifold work?
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front willwood big brake kit
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Flowmaster 40 series
rear tire melting option

Mama Mayhem · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 2:13 pm Post subject:

You MUST use a Vortec manifold with Vortech heads. They do not interchange at all.
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year · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 4:44 pm Post subject:

Gotcha, thats probably going to make me go for some "cheap" (relitively) aluminum heads, then i can reuse my manifold also.
_________________
front willwood big brake kit
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Flowmaster 40 series
rear tire melting option

toms84ss · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 4:56 pm Post subject:

Remember, you get what you pay for. If you're on a budget. You can get aftermarket cast iron heads that flow well and save you about $300.00 over aluminum heads.

year · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:35 am Post subject:

I agree the iron heads should save some cash. Now I think I am going to 383 route to get more bang for the buck. Using stock length rods, will yeild higher compresion, so aluminium will help me run lower octane gas and maybe pay itself off (probably won't ever tho).
_________________
front willwood big brake kit
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Flowmaster 40 series
rear tire melting option