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Complete Interior Overhaul
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:23 pm    Post subject: Complete Interior Overhaul Reply with quote

I'm looking for some information on a few things:

1. I have been searching the site for info and advice on replacing the Under Rear Window Sheet metal (The notorious rusted area), but have not been able to find anything. I would be interested to hear anything on how you did it and how it came out.

2. Once I get all the welding repairs complete and all the interior rust removed, I want to clean it up and apply POR-15 to all of the exposed metal on the interior of the car, including the overhead. I have never worked with the POR product but have heard that it is hard to clean up. I have also heard guys talk about spraying rather than brushing. Is this one of the times you purchase a cheap gun from Harbor Freight for a one or two time use?

3. Once the Interior is coated and cured I want to install a sound deadening / Heat shielding material like Dynamat or b-Quiet sheeting. I want to do the roof as well. I was wondering if that is a good idea or just a waste of money?

My current dilemma is that I'm finishing up my last 10 months of 25 years in the Navy and I'm currently stationed out in the middle of BFE Bahamas. I have way too much time to think about my next project on the car without actually being able to do anything until I get back home, which is usually once or twice a month. The good thing is that I have time to get the parts and supplies that I need online, and with all your help it has made the process a lot easier than originally anticipated. Sorry for the Marathon message and thanks for your support.

John
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Low75
Master Wrench
Master Wrench


Necoa #: 4203
Location: 18(N.CA,N.NV)
Joined: Oct 30, 2004
Posts: 301
Year: 1975
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend rolling or brushing(foam brush) the POR-15 on if you don't have a supplied air respirator. It's some pretty nasty stuff to breath in and is even worse when spraying. There's really not much benefit to spraying it anyway since it self-levels even when brushed on.
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1975 El Camino
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Thanks for the info. I was aware of the fume situation as well as the self leveling ability of the product but having never used it wasn't sure if there was a benefit to spraying rather than applying by brush or roller. Good info, thanks again.
John
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Low75
Master Wrench
Master Wrench


Necoa #: 4203
Location: 18(N.CA,N.NV)
Joined: Oct 30, 2004
Posts: 301
Year: 1975
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem. A couple of other things I forgot to mention are that if you do decide to spray you would probably have to thin it pretty good to get it to shoot out of a harbor freight gun. Most of their cheap guns have a 1.4mm nozzle and I've heard that 1.6mm or higher is preferred. Also after spraying you will have to clean the gun immediately if you plan to use it again otherwise the POR will dry rock hard and turn your gun into a paper weight.

As for sound deadening/heat shielding the roof, it's up to you and how comfortable you want your interior to be. If you're going to be driving it around Florida I think it would definitely be a good idea to put as much heat shielding in there as possible.

Juliano's has an insulation material called Insul-Tek(http://julianos.com/insultek.html) that's pretty nice. I've also heard good things about a product called E-Dead. Both are far less expensive than Dynamat if you're on a budget.

Anyway, when you get home and get around to working on it be sure to take some pics for us to check out. Cool
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http://elcaminocentral.com/gallery-album_album358.html
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Got some pics uploaded to the geocities website link below. Not sure if it's linked correctly?
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John

http://www.geocities.com/jwmdmm@ymail.com/home.html
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Low75
Master Wrench
Master Wrench


Necoa #: 4203
Location: 18(N.CA,N.NV)
Joined: Oct 30, 2004
Posts: 301
Year: 1975
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. Nice job so far on the floor pan patches...and that engine compartment is super clean! Thumbs Up
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Maximus84
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Necoa #: 9907
Location: 19(AK,ID,OR,WA)
Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 712
Year: 1984

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1st of all JNYMO,from one former serviceman to another man in uniform...thanks 4 your service to our great country! Patriotic USA You Rock I wish I'd stayed in long enought to get a check,if I'd made it. Anyway,back on subject...I dont know if it;d be a good choice for above your head,but I used a product called Reflectix under my new capet install,in my 'other' Chevy,my vette. http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=729#ReflectiveInsulations -I bought a roll of it from a home improvement center...Home Depot...& just cut to fit the floor.They have aluminized tape to seal edges.You can spray glue it down,but the aluminum conforms to the shape & stays put. Reflective Insulation (Reflective/Bubble)
Our reflective insulation is a safe, easy-to-use, thermal insulating material that provides cost effective, high efficiency performance for a wide range of applications. The Reflectix® Double Bubble product consists of two outer layers of a highly reflective material that reflects 96% of the radiant energy that strikes it's surface. This material is bonded to a tough layer of polyethylene for strength. Two inner layers of insulating bubbles resist conductive heat flow while a center layer of polyethylene give Reflectix® high reliability and strength. The Double Bubble product is recommended when the application calls for enhanced condensation control, greater strength and higher thermal qualities

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Ugly Elco
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Necoa #: 12579
Location: 11(IA,NE,ND,SD)
Joined: Oct 04, 2008
Posts: 23
Year: 1979
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey there John, I would go with the dynamat option. Easy to use easy to install easty to cut and trim. As to weather it is a waste of your time and resources don't worry about it that's why they call it a project!!!!!!
On another note I'll swap spots with ya. I still got five years to go to hit twenty in the canoe club myself. Good luck on the retirement and enjoy my friend.... Ugly Elco.......
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Maximus84
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Master Wrench


Necoa #: 9907
Location: 19(AK,ID,OR,WA)
Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 712
Year: 1984

PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isnt Dynamat very expensive? Reflectix is quite economical
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon, Aaron,
Thanks for the good words and for the information. I continue chipping away at getting my Interior back into shape and am concerned about welding the new under rear window shelf panel into place. My main concern is warping or distorting the back window sealing area. I have been looking all over the site for anyone who has experience with this repair, but haven't found anything. I'm thinking about basically spot welding the panel with my welder so there is time for the metal to cool, then patiently and over time I will have completed a solid bead across the back. Any thoughts or advice will be appreciated.
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Low75
Master Wrench
Master Wrench


Necoa #: 4203
Location: 18(N.CA,N.NV)
Joined: Oct 30, 2004
Posts: 301
Year: 1975
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some things you could try are placing a piece of copper behind the weld area(copper acts as a heat sink), or using a thermal paste/anti-heat compound around the weld area. There is also a weld-thru primer by SEM called Copperweld...as the name suggests, it has copper in it so it helps reduce the heat zone similar to the "piece of copper behind the weld" trick. And lastly, if you're REALLY concerned about warping you could just not weld it at all and use a good panel adhesive instead. I don't think I'd go that route myself, but still, it's an option.

Good luck with it.
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Maximus84
Master Wrench
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Necoa #: 9907
Location: 19(AK,ID,OR,WA)
Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 712
Year: 1984

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm no welder,but from info I've picked up,you should space the spotwelds quite a ways apart,& go really slow to let the heat dissipate to keep any warping at a minimum,R U welding around the edge,or putting holes in to 'spot' weld?
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maximus84,
For now I'm working on cutting out all the cancer and targeting the new panel. I guess I will make a decision once I see what I have left to work with. I have a few pictures of the spot on my link so you can see the extent of the damage and how much there is to deal with. I may have to fabricate some type of tabs or brackets or something. I'm not too overly concerned, however, I will be cautious and take it slow as not to get too much heat up in that area. I'm still waiting on a few things to come in the mail, but once I get her fixed up I will post some pics.

Low75, I appreciate the info on keeping the heat down, and I agree with you. Although adhesive is there as a possible option, I want to go with the weld. In for a Dime, in for a Dollar. Besides, nothing ventured is nothing gained. In the Famous words of Ugly Elco " That's why they call it a project!"

Thanks Guys!
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Maximus84
Master Wrench
Master Wrench


Necoa #: 9907
Location: 19(AK,ID,OR,WA)
Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 712
Year: 1984

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JNYMO wrote:
Maximus84,
For now I'm working on cutting out all the cancer and targeting the new panel. I guess I will make a decision once I see what I have left to work with. I have a few pictures of the spot on my link so you can see the extent of the damage and how much there is to deal with. I may have to fabricate some type of tabs or brackets or something. I'm not too overly concerned, however, I will be cautious and take it slow as not to get too much heat up in that area. I'm still waiting on a few things to come in the mail, but once I get her fixed up I will post some pics.

Low75, I appreciate the info on keeping the heat down, and I agree with you. Although adhesive is there as a possible option, I want to go with the weld. In for a Dime, in for a Dollar. Besides, nothing ventured is nothing gained. In the Famous words of Ugly Elco " That's why they call it a project!"

Thanks Guys!
Sure sounds like a project,& one you sound more qualified to take on than myself.Goo luck! where did you find your "project"?
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JNYMO
Wrench
Wrench


Necoa #: 12554
Location: 6(FL)
Joined: Sep 29, 2008
Posts: 18
Year: 1972
Model: El Camino

PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The car is my wife's oldest son's first car. He has done some work, but priorities change and time and the elements have taken their toll. This restoration is to keep the 1972 El Camino alive and in the family. We recently transported the car from Oklahoma City to Okeechobee Florida. Slowly but surely the planets are aligning for this Machine...
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