Electrical Basics - Part 3b - Soldering

John D

Part 3 detailed how to make good connections with crimp connectors.

I'll delve into the mystery of soldering now.
Tools Needed:
Safety Glasses
Soldering iron
Rosin Core Solder
Shrink Tubing (preferred) or good Electrical Tape
Wire Stripper
Alligator Clips / Heat Sinks (optional)

**Wear the Safety Glasses!! A pinhead dot of 400+ degree molten lead flicked in your eye will ruin your day, and possibly your eyesight!***

A 25 to 40 watt soldering pencil will work just fine for most work on automotive stuff (14ga. to 18ga. wire).

Keep Grandad's 400 GigaWatt solder gun/iron in the toolbox - it's just too hot for the job at hand.

This type of iron is just fine:
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103169204

(I also often use a Weller "Portasol". It's butane powered (cordless) and gets plenty hot for this type of work. Word of Caution - it's very easy to set other things on fire with this tool. It has an exhaust port on the side. Be aware of where it's pointing when you're using it.)
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103127402

Rosin Core Solder ONLY
Acid Core or Silver Solder are for other jobs, not wiring!

How to make a good solder joint = PRACTICE.... It's like welding - a delicate balance of heat/speed/solder feed:

1) Both items to be joined MUST be clean & free of corrosion. If the copper or brass isn't shiny-bright you'll run the risk of a "cold" joint or a poor connection. A few swipes with a small wire brush or pen-knife will clean it up adequately.

2) If you're using shrink tubing, cut a piece to fit the job, and slide it down the wire NOW! (I don't know how many times I've finished a job only to have to un-do it for this little step!)

3) Prepare the items to be connected. (Pictures are click-able)

Strip off about 3/8" insulation on both wires

Push the ends together and give them a slight roll/twist in the middle

Apply heat to the joint

Apply solder - The solder should just FLOW right into the joint - if it doesn't it's either not hot enough, or is dirty.

Slide shrink tube over joint, and heat - Done

This is a connection that is as strong and conductive as the parent materials.

For Doing Terminals:

Strip the wire - NOTICE, only enough copper is exposed that will fit into the terminal

Crimp the connector onto the wire

Apply heat, then solder. Again the solder should just FLOW right into the connector body.

Slide the shrink tube over the connection, and heat.

If you're doing 12Ga. or larger wire you'll probably need to step up to a 75W or bigger iron (soldering gun). 25 Watts won't be enough heat.

If you're doing work under the dash, lay an old towel or floormat down. Solder drips will burn carpet!

Radio Shack, or a local electronics hobbyist outfit should have all the materials needed.
_________________
'64 Elky, 383, TH-350, 12 Bolt, HR pwr. steering, LED lamp conversions

"Think you used enough dynamite there Butch?"

JDCamino82 · Posted: Sun May 13, 2007 3:40 pm Post subject:

Good Article, I always solder all my joints, looks a lot more professional when shrink tubing is used too.