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removing tough bushings?
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1BadElky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:24 pm    Post subject: removing tough bushings? Reply with quote

there are 2 bushings for the upper trailing arms mounted in the rearend housing. these things are tight, and 22 years of rust doesn't help. how do I remove these? I want to upgrade to poly.

A mechanic suggested using an air chisel to knock them out. is that okay? any other methods?
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464elky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes they are a bugger. If you air chisel them out how are you going to put them back? From experience - if you try to hammer them back in you will destroy the new ones. I saw the tool to change them with on one of the sites that sells poly bushings but I can't find it now. I'll keep looking and if I find it I'll PM you.
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toms84ss
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air chisel will work as long as you dont plan to reuse them. HRParts-N-Stuff has a tool for removal and install of these bushings. I always use jobs like this as an excuse to buy new tools. If you look at the tool they sell you can make your own out of parts from the hardware store.
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hel98
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also use a reciprocating saw or a hack(ugh)saw to split the inner and outer sleeves of the bushing. That will let the sleeve compress slightly and they'll usually knock out easily. Rick
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1BadElky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inner and outer sleeves? how do I split them exactly?
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hel98
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bushing has a metal tube (sleeve) that extends thru the inside of the rubber part of the bushing.The rubber is also inserted in an outer sleeve that's pressed into the rear end.

Make the cut lengthwise thru the sleeves. In effect slotting the sleeve along it's entire length. The slot will relieve the pressure on the bushing and it will knock out much easier. The slot has to be cut all the way thru the sleeve for this to work right. Be careful on the outer sleeve. Don't gouge the mount too much.



Rick
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dougs85
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any reason why heat could not be used. I like heat, as I get older I give out a lot of it.Poke Tounge Rubber gives up pretty easy when heat is applied to a part holding a bushing. It kind of burns and melts at the same time. Should be easy to push out the bushing then.

Doug
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CHVYPWR
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dougs85 wrote:
Any reason why heat could not be used. I like heat, as I get older I give out a lot of it.Poke Tounge Rubber gives up pretty easy when heat is applied to a part holding a bushing. It kind of burns and melts at the same time. Should be easy to push out the bushing then.

Doug


This is one of the easiest ways I found to remove old suspension bushings. The rubber slides out well when heated, just be very carefull, they sometimes bounce around on the floor while in flames. Laugh The air chisle works good too, just hammer on the side of the bushings metal case to break the tension holding it in, then tap out with a regular hammer.
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7d8ss
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a ball joint press to remove & replace mine. Looks like a big C clamp. Not particularly easy, but effective. - Jon
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K5Cruiser
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

7d8ss wrote:
I used a ball joint press to remove & replace mine. Looks like a big C clamp. Not particularly easy, but effective. - Jon

I've used heat and a BFH to get them out in the past. Jon has the right way of doing it though. You can rent these from Checker Schucks Kraegan, and if you return the tool the same day, there's no charge, otherwise it's something like $5 per day.
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OCTO13ER
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

7d8ss wrote:
I used a ball joint press to remove & replace mine. Looks like a big C clamp. Not particularly easy, but effective. - Jon


I second this. I've not done the trailing arms but a ball joint press worked wonders on my trucks controls arm bushings. I also used a long, super-skinny flat-tip screwdriver with some grease to break the walls of the rubber loose from the housing. A 7/8" impact and bench vise will also make it much easier.

I'd use heat as a last alternative. I tried that once but it smells pretty foul and was just as much work as the ball-joint press.

Adrian
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1BadElky
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

should I use a flambo torch or oxy-acetylene?
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464elky
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't want to use a torch you can use a drill with about a 1/4 or 5/16 bit and just keep drilling through the rubber until you have been all the way around and it (the rubber) will fall out.
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hel98
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No reason why heat couldnt be used, Doug. Used it myself. You'll still have to remove the outer piece. Yeah, you can use an air hammer or the C- type tool to get it out. I've cut em out with an o/a torch.
In my experience, splitting them is the cleanest, quickest method. Once it's out you clean up the mounting hole, lube the bushing, and then use the correct tool to press it in. Rick
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83elco
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1Badelky,

I used the same method as 464elky mentioned. 1/4 inch drill bit all the way around the old bushing till the rubber and center sleve fell out. then took it to the bench vise and crushed the outer sleeve in the control arm till it fell out. Or you could possibly use a sawzall to the outer sleeve of the bushing to get it to come out. I did not think of this till just now LOL. Beats the stinch and mess of burning rubber. although can be an aquired sent.... Driving I would advise to box your control arms at this point. Go up to you local home depot, pick up some 1/8 or 3/16 hot rolled sheet stock. cutt it out with your cutt off wheel and form it to fit in the opening of the control arm. As this will help with installing your new bushings and performance of your elky. dont forget to use the lube! If you don't have a welder you can always take it to your local muffler shop and have them weld it in for you. just an idea. Just my advise while you got them out

For re-assembly theres a couple of ways that I know of doing this.
You can take it to a shop and have them press them in. pressing them in is not cheap but the "RIGHT" way

What I did was put the new bushings in the freezer for like a week. put the arm in the bench vise. Heat up the ring where the bushing goes in with a oxy torch or the like. Take the bushings out one by one and beat them in with a BFH. (big freaking hammer) If you don't box the arms in, make sure you put something in between the control arm to support it when swinging the BFH

As for the ball joint tool, I never thought of it but if it works theres alweays next time!
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